| |
Dispatch 7
The Isle of Jabri
December 27, 2005 -
Jabri, Kashmir
Driving up the steep and choppy one-lane road to Jabri, I see the amount of snow increase on the roadside. The two wheel drive SUV struggles to maintain a solid grip on the icy road. My ears pop with pressure as my extremities get cold. I have heard much about Jabri since my departure from Los Angeles. From its humble people to its isolation from the outside world. To fully understand their situation one must experience the journey starting 120 kms away in Srinagar. Before the Earthquake, only locals could visit the Karnah valley in which Tanghdar is located. In a way the quake created a unprecedented situation in which Indians, non- residents and relief workers could travel up the Sadhana pass and beyond. Furthermore, the trip to Jabri is even more of a security issue; for it is actually passed the border fence, down a 2,500ft mountain (accessible only by foot) and on the actual line-of-control which is, in Jabri’s case, a mine field. Only 50 meters from Jabri, past the mine field is what once used to be the same village, now under Pakistan’s control. Before the 1947 war, these two villages were one but due to political issues it has been divided since. Brothers have been divided from brothers, mothers from sons and so on.
We reached the top of the Toli post of the Indian Army which has a pristine view of valley below. I eye the “Isle of Jabri” down below, with its tin roofs visible and a vacant plot of land in which mines lay. After confirmation and reconfirmation of our identity, we are allow to start the decent on foot with 300 school supplies for the children on our backs. Excitement and anxiety fill my mind during the steep decent. A small footpath is the only way down, twisting and turning along the mountain we make our way down with small steps and big intentions. After an exhausting 45 minute decent we finally reach the bottom where we are greeted by wide eyes and smiles of the villagers of Jabri who have only seen foreigners for the second time in their lives. The first being 2 weeks ago when the KER/TNF team came to give bukaris (wood fueled heating devices), insulation and tools.
The sunlight beamed with intensity that day and there was a carnival-like atmosphere in the air. The people of Jabri were different from others, their isolation in itself had created a appreciation of anyone who thinks of them let alone to visit their “island”. They did not ask for anything and were 100% satisfied with what they had received so far even though their houses were horribly damaged. Jabri had not received any aid besides water given by the army, and no other organization had visited the area since the quake. Usmaan will make a third visit to Jabri in January to deliver clothes to the village.
From up high the houses seem to be intact with their tins roofs reflecting light but as I was given a tour by some local villagers, the houses are absolutely in unlivable condition. A house that was recently constructed looked as if it has been shelled by a ruthless and vicious army . The man told me that he has no idea how to reconstruct what he already has taken most of his life to create. While on a second story of his house I viewed the floor below through giant cracks. The floor could easily fall at any moment. The light caught my face from an open roof while I listen to the tragic history of Jabri with the an elder. We sat in this crack riddled room sipping on tea, observing the school program in the distance from a hole in the wall. We ended our time together with a hug and silently walked to the playground where the children has amassed. There was around 200 kids excited with sights of new backpacks and belting cheers of pure jubilation. Peering to the west towards the at minefield and the separated village and then to the east towards the towering mountainside I got the feeling as if I was on an island. Understanding what it really meant to exist in a place where you were not part of the world, but in a world of its own. I hope that we have made a difference in their psyche, by the notion that they are in no way alone and that people thousands of miles away have come to help. With others thinking and reading about their plight. I see why others who visited before me fell in love with the landscape, people and situation of Jabri. It will always be a part of the expedition that will bring a smile to my face to know that they are not alone and will be helped in the days, months and years to come.
We ended the visit with some medical check ups of the sick and gave out prescriptions with the help of Dr. Zameer. I eyed the mountain above that I must now climb. Sparing the details, I’ll say that I reached the top in 2 hours, drenched in sweat. They offered to get a horse for me but I laughed at the notion and couldn’t live with myself if I was the only to use such transportation. I also knew the jokes I would face for years from Usmaan and others. After it was all done, I feel that it was a crucial part of the visit and would have not have been as fulfilling without it. As I reached the top, the sun dipped under the horizon as I looked down on Jabri, hoping it would not be the last time I am bestowed with the pleasure of visiting their “island”.
-Talal Ansari
|
|
